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Legendary Yamaha NS-1000M Loudspeaker Review & Upgrades

The legendary Yamaha NS-1000M loudspeakers are proof that a major manufacturer can, with the right approach, create a unique product that has no peers, even 50 years on.

Yamaha’s NS-1000M is lauded by those who have heard them and loved by many thousands of owners, who, like me, appreciate their unique attributes. I own the pair of NS-1000s featured in this article, purchased locally after searching for many years and they form the basis for this review.

Article updated September 2021!

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All products are a set of compromises. Audio equipment is no different, some of it being more heavily compromised than others. That being said, the Yamaha NS-1000M contains fewer compromises than most loudspeakers. Indeed, the NS-1000M is one of the least compromised designs ever produced for the mass market.

My NS-1000s on stands of my own design.

So, what are the compromises in the NS-1000M? Well, their size limits the bass extension possible. Yamaha chose a sealed box design for phase accurate bass, that gradually rolls off, but there isn’t much available sub 40Hz.

Sound pressure levels are limited by sensitivity and power handling, due to voice coil design. the play loud, trust me on that. The 50 Watt limit is conservative. I run mine off a 500 Watt per channel Perreaux 5150B and they sound sublime and go very loud! There are no other compromises in terms of sound quality.


The Yamaha NS-1000M hit the market in 1974. Imagine the reaction, everything was brown when these beautiful black monoliths appeared in stores. The NS-1000M is at once timeless and space-age in appearance.

Yamaha’s flagship speaker enjoyed a huge production run, for good reason. Manufacture of the NS-1000M continued until around 1984. My pair has matching serial numbers in the 60,000 range but I’ve seen them with six-digit serial numbers.


The Yammies were widely reviewed at the time and widely adopted. The late, great J Gordon Holt wrote this for Stereophile, back in the day:

“The NS-1000s are like the class-A speakers in that they are almost embarrassingly revealing of the electronics feeding them. They sound best with the best tube-type electronics but excessively biting with most solid-state amplifiers. They also resemble the Infinity SS-1A in that they can become irritatingly strident if used in an acoustically bright listening room. Perhaps they are not everyone’s cup of tea even in an average room, but they can produce some of the most golden, blatchy sound from trombones of any speakers we have heard, and it must be remembered that trombones are the instruments that give an orchestra its power and drama.”

More recently, The Vintage Knob added this great page on the NS-1000M and there are loads more, all over the web.


This classic stand-mounted monitor came in two versions. The NS-1000M features a black ash veneer and weighs 31kg. A more up-market version called the NS-1000 comes in a rosewood veneer and features an even heavier 37kg per box.

The Yamaha NS-1000M sprang from Yamaha’s wish to create a premium monitor-style loudspeaker for home and studio use. The goal was a design that raised the bar in terms of neutrality and resolution.

By definition, monitors are references, used when mastering and monitoring the mix in recording studios. The goal is to make sure the mix is right and that it will sound right on really good equipment. To achieve this, the NS-1000M features several design considerations that make them extremely desirable for use in a home hi-fi system.


Yamaha had all the R&D and resources necessary to create the world’s first beryllium dome drivers, for use in the midrange and treble drivers of the NS-1000M. Why beryllium? Because it is the stiffest and lightest material available for loudspeaker dome design. Stiffness and lightness translate into higher sensitivity, faster transient response and better retrieval of fine detail.

These great dynamic attributes help create the incredible air and detail these speakers are known to produce. It is incredibly hard to manufacture and work with beryllium, but its unique properties imbue the NS-1000M with a unique sound.

The greenish beryllium domes are oh so pretty, and dangerous to make…


Whilst vented boxes are more efficient, a well designed sealed box will have tighter bass and have a gentler 6db per octave roll-off below the resonant frequency of the bass driver and box. With room gain countering this gentle roll-off, the bass response of the NS-1000 can actually be quite impressive.

The typical in-room response is very tight and clean. A sub-woofer can very nicely augment the bottom end of the NS-1000M, with the sealed boxes of the Yammies yielding tight bass down to around 45Hz. These days, I have mine sitting on custom B&W ASW-2500 700 Watt subwoofers. They augment the bass quite nicely…!

As you can see from the photo I took of a very special NS-1000M sliced in half (thanks Pierre @ Revolution TT). The cabinets are incredibly solid, built from a mixture of chipboard and ply. Off-cuts don’t go to waste, used instead as stiffening, inside the box.

Yamaha utilised extensive internal bracing, fillets and cabinet damping materials. They even used the offcuts from cutting out the holes for the woofers to brace the cabinet behind the critically important midrange driver. This approach yields a cabinet of almost ridiculous density. Every time I  lift an NS-1000, and it’s irritatingly often, I wince at the sheer mass and density of these black monoliths. Pro-tip: bend at the knees, not the lower back with these babies!


Yamaha designed and manufactured all three NS-1000M drivers. They didn’t rely on third-party parts or designs and were able to customise these drivers to perfectly suit the NS-1000M. This rarely happens now, drivers are almost exclusively supplied by Scanspeak, SEAS, Morel, Vifa, Peerless etc.

All three drivers in the NS-1000M have large magnet assemblies, especially the midrange driver. The large magnets provide a very high magnetic flux density. This, in turn, means the drivers are quite sensitive, which means the speakers don’t need a lot of power to play loud. They do however need a fair bit of power to control them properly.

The high sensitivity and good power handling, aid the speaker’s fine detail retrieval and help reduce system distortion. The combined effect of the highly linear motors and lightweight driven elements mean that these speakers exhibit extremely low distortion across the spectrum. In fact, in a famous test conducted by HiFi News back in the day, of all the loudspeakers tested, the Yamaha NS-1000M exhibited the lowest overall measured distortion.


Yamaha engineers understood the importance of the NS1000M crossover network and they designed it with few compromises. Crossovers sit directly on the rear terminal block. They feature large iron-cored inductors that are unlikely to saturate and non-polar paper-in-oil capacitors feeding the midrange driver.

Slopes are all second-order, which minimises group delay and phase inconsistencies. The midrange and tweeter are wired out of phase, relative to one another. This improves the dispersion and reduces cancellation effects near the cross-over point. The series high-pass electrolytic capacitor feeding the tweeter and the large electrolytic capacitors in the bass network are less than ideal. More on these shortly.


One thing that might not look particularly aesthetically pleasing, but which usually preserves the condition of those amazing drivers in the NS-1000Ms are the driver guards protecting each driver. The delicate beryllium domes of the midrange and tweeter are rarely damaged because of this excellent driver protection.

One of the best things about these speakers is ironically the somewhat ugly grilles – they protect the delicate drivers from prying fingers…
These gorgeous beryllium tweeters don’t produce much sound above 20kHz, but what’s there is clean, crystalline treble with very low distortion.

Contrast this with the NS-1200 for example, featuring very similar, but unprotected drivers, almost always horribly dented and damaged.

That Sound

Properly set up and tweaked, the NS-1000s sound amazing. They are airy, clean, smooth, tight, wide open. Really good systems benefit enormously from the insight afforded by a pair of these speakers and, even without modification, these speakers sound remarkable.

The NS-1000Ms are fast, precise and have amazing off-axis performance. You’ll get a great mid and high-frequency response from all around your listening room and very little beaming. A complaint often levelled at them though is that the NS-1000Ms sound bright.

It’s true that these are brutally revealing speakers. Poor source equipment and material will sound devastatingly bad through a pair of NS-1000s. If you have a harsh sounding CD player or bright amplifier, it will be tough going. Much of my audio setup utilises class-A amplification, FETs and this combination certainly helps to give you a smooth starting point and takes the edge off.

Choose good recordings, played on sweet-sounding gear and these speakers will give you more of the music than you may have ever heard before. The NS-1000M certainly favours tube and MOSFET or VFET amplifiers. Wonderful synergy can be achieved, as Mr Lim of the Affordable Valve Company notes here.

Electrical Improvements

NS-1000M crossovers can be improved, to great effect. I’ve developed and tested a series of improvements that I can install for customers with NS-1000s. My focus here is everything in the signal path, so a good starting point is the series capacitor feeding the tweeter. A modern polypropylene capacitor dramatically improves things, and that’s just the start.

I replace the capacitor array feeding the mids. In their place, I’ve used precision Russian military paper-in-oil capacitors as you see below. Alternatively, I use quality polypropylene capacitors. This yields a significant improvement in performance, most notably in clarity and harmonic richness.

Finally, I replace the large bipolar electrolytic capacitors in the network feeding the bass driver. Here, I’ve used with gorgeous ERO vintage parts. Now I use massive polypropylene capacitors matched to very tight tolerances.

Here you see the large red Russian paper-in-oil (PIO) capacitors that I used in the midrange filter. The larger one is in series, feeding the midrange dome, replacing the array of silver Nichicon metallised film caps at the bottom. Paralleled with this is the green MKP cap you see out to the left, yielding the required 21uF. The smaller PIO cap feeds the tweeter, paralleled with another ERO MKP film cap. Note I’ve bypassed each array with a mil-spec Siemens 0.1uF film cap.
I graded these Russian PIO capacitors. They are scarily close to their rated values, both 19.7uF, very impressive. I used hot glue to hold things in place.

Full Mundorf

Yes, I’ve gone full Mundorf! I’ve recently trialled and tested (2021) a serious full Mundorf / Panasonic polypropylene capacitor crossover upgrade in my own NS-1000s and it’s fantastic. I’ve just finished this upgrade for a set of customer NS-1000 crossovers. You can read his comments further along in this article, but let’s just say that everyone who’s heard this has stated that it’s is a heavyweight improvement.

NS-1000 crossover upgrade
Beautiful sounding and very expensive all polypropylene crossover upgrade I’ve developed. Developed? Yes, developed. I had to mock everything up, measure, test-fit, work out what should go where, trial the capacitor removal you see here, purchase a lot of very expensive capacitors and on it goes. These sorts of things take time, effort and money. I’ve done two sets of speakers with this latest iteration and it’s very, very good. Note that I’ve removed all the old Nichicon metalised film caps in my pair of crossovers here, a painful process but one that yields more room.

Mechanical Improvements

The cabinets are incredibly solid but I highly recommend replacing the fasteners that hold the drivers onto the baffle. I use marine-grade stainless steel Allen bolts in place of the Philips-headed screws. Allen bolts allow you to torque the drivers down tightly and offer a definite cosmetic improvement.

The factory speaker terminals are flimsy and only accept small gauge wire. I replace them with gold-plated binding posts. These fit conveniently onto the existing mounting plate and look almost like they came that way from the factory.


Close-up of one of the marine-grade stainless steel Allen bolts I’ve used on my Yamaha NS-1000Ms
NS-1000M speaker terminals
Replacement gold-plated brass speaker terminals.
NS-1000M anti-diffraction rings
NS-1000 anti-diffraction rings added to my pair. These bring a very worthwhile improvement and are common in more modern designs. They reduce edge diffraction from sharp cabinet edges of boxes like these. What you hear is less edge, more smoothness.

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One thing you will need to get the most out of these great transducers is a good pair of stands. Stands for the NS-1000 are not easy to find. They are the SPS-500, check them out.





It’s almost impossible to get a pair of the original Yamaha stands because owners just aren’t selling them. Instead, I decided to design and build a pair that would be easy for the average DIY’er to manufacture. I’ve written an article documenting the build of my DIY NS-1000 speaker stands, so check that out if you are looking to perhaps build your own.

The Bottom Line

Yamaha decided to resurrect the venerable NS-1000M in the form of the stunning new NS-5000. You can read a great review here @ HiFi Choice. Loads more details may be found here.

In engineering per dollar terms, there’s no way Yamaha could sell the NS-1000 now for less than twenty grand a pair. There’s too much custom engineering, metal, wood, huge magnets and dangerous beryllium. They are worth every bit of that price too. I regularly listen to the latest offerings in that price range and my NS-1000s always give them a real run for their money.

Yamaha has released the NS-5000 in Australia, with a recommended retail price of – wait for it – $ 19,999, so this basically proves my point. The NS-5000 has a nicer finish but in my opinion less advanced/expensive drivers.

Two customers of mine have NS-5000s and they both absolutely love them. One customer drives them with an Accuphase class-A integrated amplifier. He reckons they sound amazing and I’m sure they do!

The other customer recently sent me his NS-1000 crossovers for the full Mundorf upgrade I’m offering these days. He reckons his now upgraded NS-1000s sound better than his new NS-5000s. Interesting no..?!

“Hi Mike,

You’re a wealth of information and I really enjoy chatting to people like yourself. … I’ve reinstalled the crossovers, they fitted perfectly, I didn’t have to alter a thing in regards to the cabinets. I plugged them into my AS3000 to trial them and bloody hell, they sound amazing. You’ve done incredible work. They do not scream at me anymore is a way I would describe them. Previously they were so analytical that it became fatiguing after a long listen. Now they are perfect, I will obviously let them run in like you mentioned. On my first listen though I am truly impressed. Thank you so much for the attention to detail you clearly show in your work.

For any future hifi repairs I may need, you will be my first point of contact.”


So, if you find a pair of classic, game-changing Yamaha NS-1000M studio monitors in good condition, with undamaged drivers and matching serial numbers, grab them. Nothing for sensible money comes close. Seriously. Nothing.

PS: Want to Give Something Back?

Complex, definitive articles like this are sometimes years in the making. If you’ve found this article informative and useful in some way, consider making a donation. Likewise, if you’d like advice or help regarding your Yamaha NS-1000, make a donation via the Contact page and fire away!

Yamaha NS-1000M Loudspeaker

$1500 - 3000AUD

Build quality




Sound quality







  • Superb build-quality
  • Open, uncoloured midrange
  • Clean, punchy bass
  • Airy treble
  • A high-resolution lens for music & gear


  • Aesthetics?
  • Lack really deep bass
  • Brutally revealing of bright rooms and crappy gear!

37 thoughts on “Legendary Yamaha NS-1000M Loudspeaker Review & Upgrades”

  1. Thanks for the review. Two comments: could you elaborate on the type of caps you used to replace the electrolytics across the bass driver? Did you hear any difference with this change? Did you hear much change with the tweeter cap substitution?
    Did you know that Yamaha on page 3 of their owners manual, under “Speaker Placement”, l says “The best location is one in which the speakers are placed with their backs against a hard wall.” This is contrary to what is usually done in contemporary set ups and could go some way in explaining the light bass balance so often mentioned when describing these speakers.

    I recently bought a pair to mix and master recordings, on the strong advice of a very seasoned recording industry veteran, a mixing and mastering engineer since 1973 or so. He feels the amp is very important and the best he had heard the NS-1000s that he used for 30 years was with the Yamaha B-1 V-FET amp. I could not afford one of those—they still command top dollar—but what I did get is, I think, another undiscovered Yamaha treasure: a B-2 amplifier. The combination of power, sound, metering and control flexibility (and current price) make this a knockout. Think about this: the retail price in 1976 was 200,000Y, about $2500 today and a ton of money back then, yet they sold around 10,000 of them.

    The owners manual for the NS-1000 suggests the B-1 and B-2 were intended to partner with the NS-1000, and it sure sounds that way. The bass is very tasty (I’m a closet bass freak).

    1. Hi Russell, thanks for your comments and for filling out my feedback pop-up and my pleasure regarding the review.

      A few comments in response to your questions. First, the replacement capacitors I used in the low-pass filters were premium EROs from memory. These are a laboratory/military grade cap and I used pairs that I tested to measure precisely 94uF, as per Yamaha specs. I did hear a difference with this change, but less so than with the changes I made to the mid and treble networks. The low pass filter is likely to change the cutoff frequency only, and these caps are not in series with the bass driver.

      The tweeter and midrange capacitor changes yielded more dramatic results, as you would expect, given that these caps are in series with these two drivers. These are well worth experimenting with, especially the tweeter, as this cap is a low quality electrolytic and needs to be changed. The midrange caps are better but paper in oil replacements still made a noticeable difference.

      I was aware of the suggestion to place these close to or up against a wall and this will definitely yield better bass response, though likely also poorer articulation and clarity, some experimentation is suggested here!

      I’m very glad to hear that you bought a pair of these wonderful speakers and I wholeheartedly agree that the Yamaha VFET amps are a superb choice to drive these speakers. The quality of the VFET amps is well known, but the impossibility of finding any spares for the fragile VFET devices means that counterfeit items are everywhere and many amps will no longer contain original, genuine VFETs. If you have a B-2 with genuine VFETs, look after it!!

  2. Greetings from New Zealand…Thank you for the review. I concur with what you had to say. One thing that you have mentioned is that the NS 1000M can be very revealing – especially in the midrange. It would be better to set the midrange control on the speakers @ -3db mark or below in a normal room. This cuts out some of the glare and actually darkens the sound to blend with the lower end of the sonic spectrum – yet the highs remain clean. This is using soild state amps – the setting will differ for tube amps. I play analogue – vinyl – and have found this extremely effective to give a clean canvass of sound across the 20Hz to 20 KHz spectrum. Happy listening…best regards…G

    1. Hi George, yes I generally agree, though this will vary according to room furnishings, brightness and ancillary equipment. There are also issues if the attenuator knobs are ever removed, as Yamaha provided no instructions to correctly index the knobs upon reinstallation, meaning there can be unit to unit variation if these have ever been removed! Generally though, the -3dB setting is good in average and brighter suburban environments.

  3. I believe we are moving back into the era of Hi Fi. vinyl will be the stimulus for sure. Its a just a matter of time before those buying vinyl will be experimenting with improving thier sound. Think that leaves a great opportunity for some one to move in with moderately priced systems and not high end with an attitude of education.
    PS great website .
    PPS should have a blog space for interaction.

    1. Hi Ian, thanks for your kind words re my website, glad you are enjoying it. I’ve been in this space for a long time and things are certainly happening, that is for sure! I agree, vinyl has been a wonderful catalyst for the renewal of a joy for hi-fi in many people and this is just wonderful. More of it I say! Regards, Mike

    1. Hi Steve, these would be an excellent match. They are very conservatively rated for studio use in mind. I’ve been driving them with a Krell KSA-150, and they’ve never been stressed!

  4. Gustavo Castellanos

    Hi. I congratulate you for the update you did to these great speakers. I have a question, buy a few Ns1000 recently but I want to update the Crossover, I want to know if you know where they sell the updated Crossover. Thank you

  5. Hello and thank you for this well written article. I really like the appearance of your marine grade stainless steel Allen bolts. Would you be so kind to share where I could purchase them and perhaps the item number on top for both the woofers and the tweeters/midranges? Thank you!

    1. Hi Joe, glad you like the bolts, me too. I purchased these from a local fastener supplier and I couldn’t tell you part numbers etc as I don’t know them. I suggest you take one of each size to your local fastener supplier and see what they have. If there is enough demand, I might consider selling a bolt kit..!

      1. Hi Mike and thank you for your reply. There is a number on top of the bolt, but I just can’t quite make it out. I currently have 3 pair of NS-1000Ms, one pair of NS-1000s and a pair of NS-2000s. A buddy of mine and I also recently partnered on a pair of his retro-mod NS-1000Ms cabinets in original ash veneer and my extra components. Pretty interesting look. We definitely need these bolts to complete the look, though. Thanks again!

        1. Hi Joe, sounds like you have some great Yamaha speakers there! The number you mention is brand and bolt spec, not part number. My best advice is to take one of each of the standard fasteners to a reputable fastener supplier and obtain stainless allen-headed replacements. These are metric of course, you may struggle in North America to find metric bolts but someone will have them.

  6. Your ns 1000 write-up gives me a smile! I’ve a distant memory
    of being a young serviceman stationed in Japan in 1976. Wanting to get some good audio gear I asked friends for recommendations. Those were the speakers suggested. I took the train into Tokyo and listened to them in an electronics store, and was impressed. Could barely communicate with the salesman, but purchased them, anyway. With some rope they provided me I carried them both back on the train, to the base. Enjoyed them there, and shipped them when I returned to the US. Since then, they’ve moved many times around the US. All the other audio gear from those days eventually wore out. I was thinking these were sounding a bit dated until last week when I replaced and old receiver for a new yamaha av model. OMG, they are again sounding amazing. I was curious if they were still available and what other’s experience with them was/is and I came across your post. As a musician and music producer, I’d say they are still the best purchase I ever made. These days, I’m lucky to carry one of them at a time. With the exchange rate then, and getting them in Japan, I paid about a third of what they would have been in the US. As long as my ears are working, I’ll likely keep them. Thanks for the nice info on fixing them up, when necessary.

    1. Hi and thanks for your comment. What a great story and yes, I think many people now realise just how incredible these speakers really are. Ground-breaking in many ways and with no real modern replacement. With a little TLC, they can be made to sound even better and I’m sure your pair will continue to give you the same musical enjoyment and insight mine give me.

  7. giuseppe battaglia

    Salve. Anche io posseggo una coppia di NS1000M comprati nel 1987 . Pero sono saltati spesso i tweeter (due volte, visto il costo li ho sostituiti con dei Pioneer economici per tamponare) ed ora è partito un Woofer. Sono pilotati da un amplificatore Yamaha AX-792 . Giuseppe1964
    Translated: Hi. I also own a pair of NS1000M bought in 1987. But tweepers often skipped (twice, given the cost I replaced them with cheap Pioneers to buffer) and now a Woofer has started. They are driven by a Yamaha AX-792 amplifier. Giuseppe1964

    1. Hi Guiseppe, thanks for your comment. My Italian is not good I’m afraid so I’ve translated your comment for my mostly English speaking readers. It sounds like you are having issues with your NS1000Ms. These tweeters won’t ever blow unless they are overdriven, so look carefully at your setup and practices. I hate to say this but an AX-792 is way below what you really ought to be using with these amazing speakers. I’d seriously consider an amplifier upgrade, plus look at the room, source, music and way you listen. For example with lesser gear, or inexperienced ears, people sometimes turn up the bass or use loudness controls. This will almost certainly overdrive them as the volume is turned up. I’ve had mine for 6 years and use a 500 watt per channel amplifier of extremely high quality and I’ve never had an issue. With the right gear and listening practices, driver failure simply should not happen. Ciao, Mike

  8. Hi Mike,
    I’ve been reading your page very carrefully and couldn’t agree more on the fact that these are incredible speakers.
    I run them with a M-/C-2A coule and the whole sounds absolutely amazing.
    I’ve looking on the internet for crossovers imporvement since a while now.
    Yous sounds very easy and efficient ones!!
    Would you be so kind to give more details about the modifications you’ve done and the capacitors (brands, values) you’ve used?
    I would love to get my pseakers to you to get that job dnoe, but France is a long way to you…
    Thank you very much and have fun!!

    1. Hi Arno, thanks for your comment and glad you enjoyed the article! I’ve had a few similar queries, unfortunately, as a rule, I don’t give out parts lists, sell kits and so on. There are many reasons for this, one being that I provide these upgrades as a paid service for my customers and so I need to consider keeping some of my work, developments and IP etc up my sleeve! Another issue is the NOS/mil parts I used in these crossovers, many of which are hard to come by. That being said, I will probably update the NS-1000 article again sometime soon and provide a more detailed breakdown of what I did in this case. People seem to want this type of content!

  9. Also love the article… this re-capping, at least to some extent, looks like a project I’d be interested in 😀

    1. That’s great and there are many options to consider here. I’ll do an article on an improved set of crossover mods at some point that might be of interest to the NS1000 community I think.

  10. Ernesto Robles

    Hi Mike. Great review. I just inherited a pair of 1000m but woofers and tweeters are shot, midrange is ok. Could you advise on replacements woofers and tweeters? Thanks, Ernesto

    1. Hi Ernesto, glad you enjoyed the review! Drivers are no longer available new and so must be repaired by a very competent speaker repairer. Find the best person in your area to work on these.

  11. Hi Mike,

    I happened upon your site whilst exploring comments on the Yamaha 1000M. I have a chance in the next couple of weeks of buying a pair. They are the studio monitors, the ones without the

    front dust-covers. My question concerns the compatibility. I have a pair of Icon Audio 845Ms partnered with Icon’s PS3 MK11 phono stage and their LA3 pre-amp – but my room is only 13′ x

    13′ sq.,carpeted, heavy curtains and one wall lined with albums. I don’t play loud and my choice is jazz, big band vocalists, classical and – even old-style country music. Will I get full

    frequency at low to moderate volume? Most of my albums are pre 1980.

    Don’t mention the Ashes!



    1. Hi Brian, glad you found the site! Specific advice relating to your system and setup can be sought via my Contact page, but briefly, the NS1000 has excellent bass performance and is reasonably sensitive, so it will perform well with many amplifiers, yours likely included. The speakers typically need attention at this age and there are various improvements that can be made to them at the same time. Happy listening!

  12. Hi Mike, Thank you for assurance. Tweaks carried out by Liquid Audio poses a problem, I’m in the UK and, if my bid is successful, I might find Wimslow Audio can offer a service. Looking forward to Count Basie in full swing. Regards, Brian.

  13. Gday Mike,

    Good to talk to you the other day. I have one question I thought would be good to share in a public space – what are your thoughts on fitting a protection circuit
    to the NS1000s ? Be nice only having to worry about blowing fuses before blowing hard to replace drivers 🙂 What do you think ?

    1. Hi Mario, this is a good question. From a purist standpoint, fuses are generally not a good idea in speakers and don’t always save voice coils anyway, which is why you rarely see them. Sensibly driven with high-quality amplification, good cables, decent sources etc, blowing drivers in these babies (and others) is difficult and generally requires misuse/abuse. NS-1000s are sensitive, robust and play loud. It’s when things get silly or when the wrong amplifiers are used that drivers tend to blow. Give them too much HF energy or clipping distortion from a low powered amplifier for example, and the voice coils will be damaged or fuse entirely. Fuses are certainly an option, but mine don’t have fuses and I won’t be adding any! Thanks again for your question.

  14. The NS-5000 is a more forgiving version of the NS-1000 with better bass due to its ported design and woofer design. Also the zylon mids and tweeters are far more forgiving than beryllium. However at the cost of one 5000 I have three 1000M properly placed. One that I had originally bought in the 80s and two mint ones I picked up from a Japanese studio auction. All are powered by P2200 amp that was built for this speaker as well as MX-1 and M50 amps. Nice article btw.

    1. Thanks Roy, glad you enjoyed the article. Worth noting that I have a customer with both, he prefers the NS-1000 I improved for him. For me, the drivers in the NS-1000 are much better and certainly more expensive to make. It’s a little like what Yamaha has done with the GT-5000 – looks amazing but then they fitted a really disappointing clock motor instead. NS-1000s really need the right attention to get the most out of them, whatever you do.

  15. Torsti Tenhunen

    Very good article. I’m currently renovating a pair that I want to compare to the Genelec-made active version of the NS-1000M. Finnish Genelec activated couple of hundreds of Yamahas for the Finnish and Danish broadcasting companies. They have a three-way Genelec S30 amplifier on the back of the speaker.

    1. Thanks Torsti, I’d love to know more about how that goes and, if you have any information you can share, add something to the article about these speakers!

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